Froggatt Edge - Trad Climbing

Froggatt is the second most popular of the Eastern Edges with good reason; the cliff is relatively low lying, escapes the worst of the weather, faces the afternoon sun, and has many neat slabby routes. There is high a concentration of quality here, in fact almost every route on the cliff is worthy of attention. Much of the cliff was quarried; abandoned millstones still lie where they were left when the industry collapsed. Odd that such great routes as Green Gut, Brown's Eliminate and the peerless Great Slab are as man-made the classics of Millstone. Although Froggatt is renowned for its superb slabs, it has a good collection of crack climbs too. Guidebooks: Easten Grit (Rockfax). The BMC's Peak District Grit is a new selective guide. Rockfax app also available on IoS and Android. Approach notes

There are two usual approaches:

1) From parking by the bend on the B6045 a short distance below the Grouse Inn. If this is full, there is a National Trust car park a little way back up the road on the downhill side. Follow the hill-crest footpath to a stream and gate then onto cliff, 15 to 20 minutes from the car. The first section of the main edge is 100m before the prominent bulk of Froggatt Pinnacle which protrudes above the line of the cliff.

2) From a small lay-by (up to 6 vehicles) on the bend below the Chequers Inn, walk back up the road past an old horse trough, then turn right and follow a steepening track straight up the hill to arrive, slightly sweaty, in front of Downhill Racer.