Pinned Post
The Bottom Line Up Front
Climbing on the Isle of Lundy is one of the most memorable experiences I've had as a trad climber. It’s a small, windswept island of granite in the middle of the Bristol Channel, only a few miles long, but packed with some of the most atmospheric sea cliff climbing in the UK. From the moment the ferry pulls away from the Devon coast, you feel like you’re heading off on a proper adventure—cut off from the mainland, no phone signal, just you, your gear, and the cliffs.
What makes Lundy so special for me is the sense of isolation and commitment. Many of the routes are accessed by abseiling into tidal zawns, with the sea crashing below and no easy escape if things go wrong. It forces you to be focused and prepared, but that’s part of the appeal. The granite is solid, with incredible friction, and the climbing is varied—from delicate slabs to steep, exposed walls. One of my favourite routes is The Devil’s Slide, a long, elegant slab that’s as much about headspace as it is about technical difficulty. But there are plenty of harder lines too, like Satyr or Promised Land, that really test your boldness and route-finding skills.
Being on Lundy feels like stepping back in time. The lack of modern distractions, the simplicity of the island, and the shared experience with other climbers all add to the magic. Evenings are spent in the Marisco Tavern swapping stories and planning the next day’s adventure, and every climb is framed by the sound of seabirds and the ever-present sea. It’s a place that stays with you—rugged, wild, and utterly unique. I’ve climbed in a lot of places, but Lundy has a way of getting under your skin like nowhere else.
Climbing on the Isle of Lundy is a unique and exhilarating experience, but it's essential to plan ahead due to seasonal bird restrictions, accommodation options, and travel logistics.
Bird Restrictions - Lundy is a designated Marine Nature Reserve and a haven for seabirds, including puffins and Manx shearwaters. To protect these species during their breeding season, climbing restrictions are in place. From March 31 to August 14, many routes are closed to prevent disturbance. However, some areas, like The Devil’s Slide, remain open year-round. Climbers are required to check the current restrictions upon arrival and consult with the island warden to ensure compliance .
Accommodation - There are several accommodation options on Lundy:
Campsite: The island's campsite offers a rustic experience with hot showers and basic amenities. It's a popular choice among climbers due to its proximity to climbing areas and affordability. Prices are around £10 per night .
Self-Catering Cottages: Managed by the Landmark Trust, these cottages provide more comfort and are ideal for groups or families. Prices vary depending on the property and duration of stay .
Bed and Breakfast: Limited B&B options are available, with prices around £65 for a single room and £90 for a twin room per night .
Travel Costs - Reaching Lundy involves a ferry ride or, less commonly, a helicopter:
Ferry: The MS Oldenburg operates from Bideford and Ilfracombe between March and October. A return ticket costs £54 for adults, £49 for concessions, and £28 for children aged 4–15. Family tickets are also available .
Helicopter: During the winter months, a helicopter service from Hartland Point is available, offering a quicker but more expensive option .
Planning Your Trip - Given the island's remote location and limited services, it's crucial to book accommodation and travel in advance, especially during peak climbing season. Be prepared for variable weather conditions and ensure you have all necessary climbing gear and supplies. Remember, Lundy is a place to disconnect and immerse yourself in nature, so plan accordingly for an unforgettable climbing adventure.
Provisional Dates 17th - 24th September 2026
Before heading to Lundy, I like to schedule two or three focused training weekends at crags that mimic the kind of challenges we’ll face on the island. These aren’t just casual climbing days—they’re deliberately set up to practise the exact skills we’ll need, especially those you don’t usually encounter at inland crags. We can do all this training in a safe environment in the peak district.
Day One: Skills Refresher and Problem Solving - We usually start the first morning by refreshing essential ropework and belay techniques. That includes building solid anchors in awkward positions, using both gear and natural features, and making sure everyone is confident belaying in exposed positions—something you’ll do a lot of on Lundy. We also go over setting up abseils safely, especially over cliff edges, and using prusiks or backup devices.
The afternoon is for abseiling into a crag—just like you would on Lundy—and climbing back out. This is often one of the most important parts of the weekend. Many routes on Lundy are non-tidal but still very committing, so it’s vital to get used to dropping into the unknown or platform with no easy way back up unless you climb it. We’ll set up a proper abseil with a fixed line and talk through what happens if someone has to ascend the rope or retreat.
Day Two: Full-Scale Route Practice -The second day is usually about stringing it all together. One team will lead while another follows, simulating the flow we’ll use on Lundy. This is where we reinforce things like gear communication, building efficient belays, rope management on hanging stances, and moving quickly but safely through exposed terrain.
We also spend time discussing route reading and mental strategies for dealing with doubt or fatigue. Since many routes on Lundy require commitment from the first move, building that mental resilience is key. The goal isn’t to climb hard—it’s to climb well and with confidence.
Evening Debriefs - Evenings are spent reviewing what went well and what needs improvement. We go through gear choices, timing, and team communication. It’s a great chance to check that everyone is operating on the same page and to adjust any bad habits before we’re out on the island with fewer options for a second chance.